Lay bottom out and assemble sides, back, front into the grooves.
Insert legs through the bottom. It can help to roll the assembly onto its' side.
Put top on, then keeping pressure on top and bottom insert one leg from bottom through top. Install wingnut on top, then install wingnut on bottom and tension. It is much easier to install the next three legs, just repeat the process.
The flat based weld nuts are feet.
When burning for the first time, do not over tighten the stove box or you will cause warping.
Clean the titanium before the first burn - any fingerprints will heat set and be there forever.
Big Mama Stove - the assembly is the same except for the baffle, which changes things slightly.
If using the baffle then slide the legs through the four small holes in corners of baffle before installing the top. Press baffle down into place. The large oval hole in the baffle goes away from the door.
If using baffle, the pipe hole in the top section goes toward the door. If not using baffle, pipe hole goes away from the door.
If using the baffle then remove the spark screen in the damper body. (Unless you're in a Stage 1 fire restriction area, then you have to leave the screen in). Running the baffle and the screen at the same time can cause reduced draft and increased smokiness.
When using the baffle, focus on starting a hot fire fast. Use small dry tinder and kindling, and be diligent in your prep. Fire starters and extenders are a good idea. The stove with baffle runs great once pipe draft is established, but it can take longer than our other stoves to get pipe draft going. Until it does you can experience smokiness. With proper fire prep and starting the smokiness is just a few seconds.
Pipe Assembly - The pipe is a bear to roll the first time, but after burning it is a cinch. The first burn heat sets the pipe, and gives it memory of the stovepipe shape. To roll it the first time, take your time, and wear gloves. Start on one end, carefully rolling the pipe into an elongated cone shape until you can slip the first ring on. Milk that ring down the pipe slowly, adding more rings as you go. Alternatively, you can use two or more people to make the job go quicker. The lazy man's way is to take a long piece of PVC and use that to help roll the pipe into shape.
The pipe goes around the damper, not inside it. Slide the lower pipe ring up to give some room for expansion, slip the pipe over the damper, then lower the pipe ring to tighten.
Make sure there are no crinkles or creases in the pipe before the first burn, or they will be there forever.
Fire Starting - Wetfire, Instafire, trioxane, commercial paraffin wax infused cardboard products (sold for starting charcoal grills), or vaseline soaked cotton balls all work great for starting fires in our stoves. With one of these lit in the middle to back of the stove, start by placing small twigs or shavings on top, leaving plenty of breathing room until it's going well. Once a good coal bed is going you can place rounds in. More traditional fire starting with jute twine, charcloth, flint and steel, shavings, etc, are crazy fun but unfortunately not in our stoves. The door size limits access and the commercial or home prep fire starters work better.
Advanced Tip - A handy DIY solution to keep the damper in the position you want is to source some small coil springs and e-clips from a hardware store. Put the spring on the damper control (the shepherds crook side) so that it places tension against the damper pipe. Back this spring with an e-clip (retainer clip) and the damper stays put. You'll burn through the spring after a few good fires, but they only cost cents per piece, so it's cheap to have several in your stove bag.