Redcliff UltraLight

Lead Times - Gray 6-8 weeks, Spruce 8-12 weeks

The Redcliff is a pyramid / tipi hybrid suitable for sleeping 3 - 6 adults. Capable of using a nest on each end or liners, the Redcliff easily adapts to every season. With its rectangular footprint the Redcliff pitches faster than a tipi and its angular panels shed weather better than a plain pyramid.  A steep, symmetrical profile and integrated sod skirts further enhance weather resistance.  The Redcliff is equally at home as a base camping shelter while hunting, or a ultralight backpacking shelter when shared by a larger group.

Handmade in Grand Junction, CO.


  • Dyneema® Ct2e.08 - Color Spruce Green
  • Sod Skirt
  • Line Loc - Cordage 3mm Stake outs 
  • Single Zippered Door With Rain Flaps
  • Stove Jack Located Opposite Entry
  • Peak Vent
  • Hang Loops
  • Six Guyout Points
  • Seams are factory sealed


Dyneema® will not burn or propagate a flame however it does have a lower melting point. Due to the lower melting point, we recommend you do NOT use the anything that inhibits sparks from moving away from your tent such as a rain cap. We also do not recommend burning duraflame logs, or real pitchy wood or accelerants  that can create a lot of soot. Use a spark arrestor. For the Redcliff a slightly longer stove pipe is not a bad idea (such as 8 Ft ) .  


  • Weight:
    • Complete weight - canopy, stakes, carbon pole - 50 oz 
  • Dimensions:
    • Height 6' 8″
    • 102" by 156" footprint (corner to corner), 130" by 178" center to center
    • 132 sq ft


  • Sleeps 6 without stove
  • Sleeps 3 with stove
  • Sleeps 2-3 ultralight short cots with a stove
  • Need one size smaller?  See the 4 Person Tipi
  • Need one size bigger?  See the 8 Person Tipi
  • Similar size in a tipi shape?  See the 6 Person Tipi


  • Shelter canopy
  • Stove jack with rain flap
  • Carbon Pole - 5 sections 
  • 12 stakes


The Redcliff is a rectangle based structure and is therefore easy to pitch.

  • Pick your sleeping area and desired door location - this dictates how you pitch the shelter.
  • Stake the four corners in a rectangle, making sure the angles are as square and true as possible.  Do not overstretch the fabric or you will result in a bell shape at the bottom that reduces interior space.
  • Make sure vent is open or closed, stovejack is open or closed, as desired. (Harder to reach once pole is up)
  • Insert the pole and raise the shelter.
  • Stake out the doors.
  • Stake out the seams near the doors.
  • Use the guylines on each end to stabilize and increase interior space.


Read Knots You Should Know to learn our favorite ways of rigging cordage to perform tasks.  The most common tasks you'll need to do are:
  • Putting a Prusik On The Pole to pitch a nest or rig a dryline for hanging gear. 
  • Tying guyline or mainline to a tree or branch. 
  • Connecting line to a guyout. 
  • Tying off to a stake. 





The most common questions we get about hot tents are:

  • How do you not burn the tent down?  
    • The stove jack is a high temp fiberglass material rated to several thousand degrees.  The tent material never touches the hot pipe.  You can get pinholes from floating embers, but a small dab of silicone seals the pinhole and doesn't hurt the shelter.
  • How does a floorless shelter work in wet weather?
    • Really darn well.  Don't pitch in a depression obviously, but the ground inside dries out quickly, and it's super convenient to just walk in with muddy shoes (or dogs) and not worry about getting your floor dirty.
  • What about condensation?
  • What about carbon monoxide?
    • It's truly not a concern.  We include a peak vent, plus the shelter will draw air through the zipper and under the sod skirt.  If you're still concerned, leave a door unzipped 8" or so at the bottom to allow more venting.

Redcliff 360 VR


Redcliff Standing and Sitting 360 VR

Sketchup Animation

Redcliff 360 Look Around



Explore real world photos from our customers